Last stop in France–Marseille

After disembarking from the AmaKristina in Avignon, we went to Marseille for a couple of days. Marseille is a colorful and fairly hilly city, with lots to see and do near the Old Port.

Outdoor market in Marseille

Marseille Cathedral near the Old Port (not my picture)

Main door into the Cathedral

Interior of the Cathedral

Pieta inside the Cathedral

Colorful shops and interesting decor are sprinkled throughout the City.

Lots of restaurant options and great seafood in Marseille. The first day, we had a fantastic lunch at La Brasserie de Joliette near the Old Port and the next day another excellent lunch at Nul Part Allieurs, also at the Old Port.

Goat cheese salad at La Brasserie de Joliette near the Old Port

Mussels at La Brasserie de Joliette

Tuna nicoise salad at Nul Part Ailleurs.

We did the Hop On/Hop Off bus to get a glimpse of the rest of the city and one of the most curious things we encountered was when our bus was attempting to turn right onto a narrow street, and a car was parked right at the corner so we could not get around it.

The bus driver honked several times, expecting someone to come out, but no one did. A few minutes and several honks of the horn later, a passerby saw our predicament and signaled for the bus driver to come to the car, where he pointed out a note on the front window. The bus driver read the note and called the number indicated on the note.

A few minutes later (and by now we have been sitting there for at least ten minutes), a woman sauntered to the car, casually took off her coat and got in, as though parking one’s car on a corner, blocking traffic and going about one’s business is what is done in Marseille–but the bus driver’s reaction clued us in that this was not what one usually does in Marseille. A lesson in French culture.

Last stop–Avignon

The last stop on our Amawaterways river cruise on the Rhone River was Avignon.

A part of the wall that surrounds Avignon

Our walking tour included the Popes’ Palace, which was built in the 14th century and was the home to Popes for more than 60 years.

Popes’ Palace

Above the cloister

One of the original doors into the Palace

Plaster reproductions of prominent people during the reign of the Avignon Popes

The Palace is massive (160,000 square feet), and parts of it are now being used for art exhibits and as offices. An exhibit of the photographs of Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado, called Amazonia, was on display when I visited the Palace.

One of the photos in the Amazonia exhibit

As I was looking for details about the Popes’ Palace, I came across this entry on a blog called Eurotravelogue which has wonderful pictures and much more information.

Provence, France

The most amazing excursion during the Amawaterways river cruise from Lyon to Avignon was to a limestone quarry in Provence which has been repurposed into an immersive art experience called CARRIÈRES DE LUMIÈRES.

The limestone quarrey (not my picture)

When we stepped inside the quarry, we entered Venice and were immersed in images of art and architecture. Haunting music enhanced the experience, and I was mesmerized.

My photos cannot capture the magnificence of this exhibit, so I encourage you to visit the site–and visit the place.

One of the scenes projected on the quarry walls (not my picture).

From there, we went to Les Baux-de-Provence, a 12th century village on top of a mountain.

Narrow street of Les Baux

Saint Blaise Chapel, built in the 12th century

Tapestry inside the Chapel of St. Blaise in Les Baux

Doors of Arles, France

Perhaps becaue Van Gogh lived in Arles and painted 300 paintings here, or perhaps people here just like color, but I found more colorful doors here than anywhere else I have visited in France.

Arles, France

One of the excursions on the Amawaterways River Cruise on the Rhone River was to Arles, the place where Van Gogh painted about 300 paintings.

I found Arles particularly interesting, perhaps because I had seen the Van Gogh in America exhibit at the Detroit Institute of Arts just before leaving for France, and Arles was an important place for Van Gogh.

The building where Van Gogh lived in Arles (known as the Yellow House).

Rendering of the Yellow House where Van Gogh lived, with the front addition which is no longer there.

Doorway to the hospital where Van Gogh was taken after cutting off his ear.

The courtyard inside the Hospital

Homes near the amphitheater

Roman column inside the wall

Roman amphitheater in Arles

I love the little niches with statues of saints

Doors of Vienne, France

On our walking tour in Vienne, France, several doors (and door knockers) caught my attention.

A stop in Tournon-sur-Rhone

Our walking tour in Tournon-sur-Rhone included the old city, with the high walls, and a walk across the bridge for a wine tasting and a stop at a chocolate shop.

Part of the walls around the Old City

Many buildings throughout the parts of France I have visited have these nooks with statues, often of Mary or a patron saint of the town.

A door in the Old City

Pedestrian bridge across the Rhone, leading to the vineyards.

Cruising the Rhone River

Last month, I went on an AmaWaterways river cruise called Colors of Provence, and we sailed from Lyon to Avignon, with stops in Vienne, Tournon, Tarascon and Avignon.

Previously, I had gone on two large ship cruises (Alaska and Hawaii) and a windjammer sailing cruise off the coast of Maine (with 24 passengers), but this was my first river cruise, so I did not know what to expect.

The AmaKristina was built in 2017 and can hold 156 passengers. Most days offered three excursions (included in the cruise price) and a good variety of sights. I did the daily walking tour option and found the local guides to be very knowledgable.

Morning and afternoon exercise classes were offered most days and other amenities (massage, fitness room, laundry, etc.) were available. An e-postcard was offered through the myAmaCruise app, and I found that an easy way to share my cruise with family and friends back home. Here is the e-postcase I send after our stop in Vienne.

Meals were available in the Main Restaurant, the upstairs lounge (casual dining) and the Chef’s Table, a seven-course meal for a small number of people–I celebrated my birthday in the Chef’s Table, and it was a real treat. Here is my cake:

Nightly, on-board entertainment was, well, entertaining. A pianist/opera singer jouneyed with us, and we enjoyed his musical talents throughout the days.

While we were still in port in Lyon, a representative from a silk company presented the process by which silk is produced and also had silk scarves for sale. And one afternoon, the sommelier played a wine game where we learned about wine regions in France.

One highlight of the trip was a day trip to Les Baux and the Carrieres des Lumieres. Les Baux is a town built high atop a craggy mountain, offering expansive views of Provence and plenty of shops and restaurants.

At the bottom of the hill is an old limestone quarry which has been repurposed as a theater presenting the Carrieres des Lumieres, an immersive light show inside the quarry. We saw a presentation of the art of Venice, and it was amazing.

I learned a great deal during this cruise and appreciated the excellent service on the AmaKristina. Travel usually includes some hiccups, and the staff responded to the unexpected with calm confidence.

As I reflect on those days, what stands out the most were the conversations I had with other travellers. I was traveling with two friends, and we connected with other women travelers, including a mother/daughter duo. Our travel tribe ranged in age from 24 to 86, and I marveled at the level of trust that developed in so short a time.

I was grateful for this opportunity to see a part of France from the vantage point of a river.

Walled cities

I am drawn to walled cities.

I first became aware of this attraction when I visited Krakow, Poland, thirteen years ago and stayed inside the walls. Even though the walls are no longer intact, a park surrounds the Old City and marks where the walls had once been. I felt safe being inside the Old City.

On my second visit to Krakow a year later, I stayed outside the walls. Every morning, I crossed over into the Old City, and something about being inside the walls felt secure to me.

A few years later, a friend visited Carcassone, a walled city in France, and sent me videos. As soon as I saw the videos, I knew I wanted to visit. It took a few years, but I went last spring, and I specifically chose to travel with Overseas Adventure Travels (O.A.T.) because they offered the opportunity to stay inside the walls of Carcassone.

The tour started further north, though, in Angers, another city with walls. Once again, I felt drawn to being within the walls. When we got to Carcassone, I felt completely at home within the walls.

Last month, I visited Avignon, another walled city, and I again found myself drawn to the inside.

Avignon, France

And then last week, I visited Italy and spent a few days in Lucca, a walled city in Tuscany.

The walls around Lucca are intact and the top of the wall is a wide path where people walk, run or bike. I walked the path several times during my stay, enjoying the views of the Old City below.

One of the gates into the walled city of Lucca, named after St. Donato

Inside the gate, I came across this fireplace and painting.

Not only is Lucca surrounded by a wall, but beyond the walls are mountains, creating the impression of a double boundary.

What is it that draws me to these enclosed places?

Walking the path on the walls of Lucca one day, I pondered the mystery of my attraction to walled cities, and I thought about growing up in Detroit.

Detroit is anything but walled, but there were certain streets which I never crossed. I stayed within the confines of an area around my house, never venturing beyond Woodward Avenue or Eight Mile Road. Without being told to, I had created my own walls.

Awareness brings an invitation, and my awareness of being drawn to walled cities and of creating physical boundaries, makes me think about other walls I have built—not necessarily physical walls but any kind of boundary that gives me a sense of security.

I find myself asking if my walls are a matter of security or a limitation, and if I being invited to step out from beyond the walls and take a chance on what is on the other side.

Travels from Lyon

After a few days in Lyon, my two friends and I boarded an Amawaterways river boat to begin our cruise south on the Rhone River to Avignon. But before we left Lyon, we took a tour of Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse–an indoor market where the specialities of Lyon are found in abundance.

We tasted cheeses and meats (always with wine) and then dessert.

Cheese tasting at the Market

Macarons in many colors

We also took a walk along the river to the point where the Rhone and Saone Rivers meet. Along the way, we passed some interesting buildings.

Lyon is a city with a great deal of history and also innovative architecture.

ONLY LYON at the confluence of the two rivers